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Thread: How To: Valve Stem Seal Replacement

  1. #46
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
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    Huh? They should be different colours mate.
    A bronzey type colour and silver.
    The EPC lists just 1 part number for both inlet and exhaust, but it's a different number to the above. (90913-02090) with a qty of 24, so I guess if you get those then they'll fit either
    Tony License
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  2. #47
    BADGER BADGER BADGER..... Club Member Soonto"HAS"soop's Avatar
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    The EPC shows 02088 as the exhaust side, but then throws 02123 out and says it does not exist. HHHhhmmmmm let me check the exploded diagrams....

  3. #48
    BADGER BADGER BADGER..... Club Member Soonto"HAS"soop's Avatar
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    Seems the EPC sees the intake as 90913-02090 and is for production vehicles after 01-01-95, maybe it has changed again?

  4. #49
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    You EPC is probably a lot newer than mine Ben! Put it this way, I got mine back in '98, and I doubt it was the most current one then!
    Tony License
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    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  5. #50
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member LeeT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob
    Jake, are the holes in the stem seals slightly different sizes? Only I got mine from ebay and can't tell which is which until I open up the head!
    there was a thread on supraforums about the ebay seals. apparently they are all the same size but someone did use them with success. i'd only buy these from mr T to be honest
    1994UKT6 custom 3 stage orange pearl, ITS GT72DBB,6spd conversion


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  6. #51
    What search button? MEMBERSHIP EXPIRED Bob's Avatar
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    Just working on this at the mo, bought some Ferrea valve seals from Dusty. Just taken out the spark plug on no. 6 (think that's the right number - one at the far end anyway! ) and it' sliterally dripping with oil Also noticed all th eends of the plugs are white - is that okay?

    And why hasn't this been made a sticky / faq thingy?

  7. #52
    Push it! Club Member Marco's Avatar
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    The oil is there probable because your rocket cover seals are worn out, when you replace them with new ones it should be OK! I had the same problem.

    Dont know about the white plugs...

  8. #53
    What search button? MEMBERSHIP EXPIRED Bob's Avatar
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    I'd just like to add a bit of advice for anyone attempting this:


    DON'T buy a cheap tool such as THIS. It will only screw things up and end up bending, having spent 3 hours trying desperately to replace the first set of keepers, only to see one of them ping away into the front garden never to be seen again (resulting in 48 hours of sulking).


    DO buy the proper tool from HERE (<50 delivered next day). This will allow you to stand slack-jawed in a mute mixture of rage, embarassment, and disbelief when you re-install the first three sets of keepers in under 60 seconds.

  9. #54
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    lol Ben. Have you finished the job now? If so how did it all go? I take it you took the head off anyways seeing as you were fitting new valves?
    Did you machine off all the knurling on that tool as well?
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  10. #55
    I'm a newbie MEMBERSHIP EXPIRED
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    one question on this nice article
    how i will reconize when start the engine on the smoke from the back is from the steam valve

    or
    i have a blown turbo
    since i drive on the TTC mod and i think there is no problem with turbos
    ?
    ?
    ?

  11. #56
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    When you initially start the engine, unless the turbo seals are *really* worn, they shouldn't smoke.

    If you get blueish smoke that clears after a few seconds, then it'll be the valve stem's. If it continues then it'll be something else.....
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  12. #57
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    Thank you so much for this post. It's been very helpful .... I tried this valve seal job on my Aristo V. The problem being, I seemed to have dinged up the head a bit as I cannot get a couple of the valve buckets back in with out force. I don't want a floating or stuck valve ... any ideas on this or am I now stuck with getting the head looked at by a pro?

    I feel pretty stupid. I de-knurled the tool but maybe I was concentrating too heavily on giving the tool a good wack with the hammer. The tool must have made contact with the head.

  13. #58
    bleh Club Member miko_supra's Avatar
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    just read this. fantastic write up!

  14. #59
    Work... what work? Club Member
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    anyone wanna sell there overhead valve tool?

  15. #60
    auto-matic Club Member carl0s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLicense View Post


    You then need to set the crank-shaft pulley to the 0 timing mark, with the no.1 cylinder at top dead centre.
    To do this gently place the long screw driver into the plug hole of the no.1 cylinder, then turn the cranksshaft untill the timing mark lines up with the 0. NOW be careful, there's two timing marks on the pulley. (As I found out after a lot of head scratching later!) if you're turning the crankshaft clockwise it's the second timing mark that you want to use.
    I am considering doing this procedure (smoke on startup after weekend is shocking now), but feel a little daunted. It's all pretty clear except for the timing related stuff, which is where I feel I might cock it up.

    In the bit I have quoted above, you have said to place the screwdriver into no1 plughole, presumably to observe something, but you haven't said what to observe.

    Does setting the crank pulley yellow-mark to 0 automatically imply TDC on no1 cylinder, and we're just using the screwdriver to confirm that this is correct ?
    You say "set the crank-shaft pulley to the 0 timing mark, with the no.1 cylinder at TDC". Do I have to do both then, or does setting the crank to the 0 timing mark actually set the no1 piston to TDC (my limited understanding of engines suggests turning the crank will move the pistons directly, but I'm looking for clarification )
    Last edited by carl0s; 20-05-08 at 15:13.
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