Page 1 of 9 12345 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 133

Thread: How To: Valve Stem Seal Replacement

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)

    How To: Valve Stem Seal Replacement

    Time to do the valve stem seals on my 1993 J-spec with about 105,000 miles on it....

    Before you start the parts you need to order are:-

    Valve stem seal (Inlet) 90913-02088 12 off at £3.53 each
    Valve stem seal (Exhaust) 90913-02123 12 off at £4.93 each
    Cam shaft oil seal 90311-40020 2 off at £6.59 each

    I recommend that if you've not had the camcovers off in a while you also order the following:-

    Cam cover bolts 90105-06166 12 off at £0.56 each
    Cam cover nut 90179-06288 4 off at £0.56 each
    Cam cover washer 90210-07001 16 off at £1.83 each
    Cam cover gasket (Inlet) 11213-46020 1 off at £7.53 each
    Cam cover gasket (Exhaust) 11214-46011 1 off at £7.53 each

    You'll also need some gasket sealant. I bought the Toyota stuff which was a little expensive to say the least, but hell, I've got it now so...

    Seal packing 08826-00050 1 off at £42.96

    If you've not replaced the spark plugs in a while also, you may want to order the following:-

    Coil pack clip 90980-11246 6 off at £2.81 each
    Cam breather hose 12263-46010 1 off at £5.78 each
    Cam breather hose 12264-46010 1 off at £4.98 each.

    As far as specialist tools go you'll need a couple of items. I ordered mine from snap-on.

    Tool, Overhead Valve GA318A £34.90+VAT
    Pliers valve stem seal YA8230 £41.45+VAT

    You'll need to make a modification the valve tool (which is used to remove and install the valve keepers) In stock form it is knurled. Thus needs to be removed otherwise it can scratch the head around the bucket bore. I turned mine down on a lathe at work. The tool actually comes in two main bits:-



    Hopefully you can see where I machined off the knurling:-



    You'll also need a length of rope. I got 2m worth of 6mm dia rope from homebase for £2.

    Once you've got that little lot, you can be sure that the things that are to be quite honest more than likely to break or leak or just need replacing is covered. So I guess the first thing is to get on with the job.....

    edited to add tools required

    p3JZ5
    Last edited by TLicense; 15-01-10 at 17:10. Reason: p3JZ5
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  2. #2
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    So first of all, you need to remove the spark plug cover. Now if you're struggling at this stage, I suggest you get someone else to do it for you....

    There's 10 bolts which you'll need a 5mm allen key to undo.

    Once that's done you'll need to remove the two cam breather pipes:-

    12263-46010


    and

    12264-46010


    Mine were recently replaced so were nice and supple, if you've not replaced yours recently they'll be hard and will more than likely split.

    Next you need to remove the coil packs.

    To do this you need to unclip the 6 plugs that connect to the coil packs. They look like this:-

    90980-11246


    and



    Again these will tend to go hard and brittle with age, and will tend to dissintegrate on contact so best to order a replacement set first.

    You'll also need to disconnect the plugs that connect to the intake air control VSV:-



    and also the exhaust bypass valve vsv:-

    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  3. #3
    OG Club Member Sharpie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    England - Lancashire
    Posts
    7,244
    Feedback
    24 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by TLicense
    Mine were recently replaced so were nice and supple, if you've not replaced yours recently they'll be hard and will more than likely split.
    Yep, or totally solid hard and need cutting off with a stanley knife.
    95 UK TT Auto 202 (SOLD)
    If you dream it, you can build it.

  4. #4
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    So once you've removed those you can pull the two engine wires to the front of the engine like this:-



    Next the coil packs. There's 2 bolts for each coil pack. 3 coil packs. As I removed each one I marked them so I could match them back to the cylinder they came from:-





    Next to unbolt the cam covers there are 12 bolts and 4 nuts.



    Th real pain here is getting to the last two bolts on the outside of each cam-cover, and the two nuts on the inside near no.6 cylinder. The problem is that the air tube that feeds air to the idle air control valve gets in the way. It has to be removed!









    It's got 5 pipes attaced to it and is held against the inlet cam cover by a spring clip. Once I'd undone the 5 clamps, it was fairly easy to shuffle it out. Be careful as the pipe above it runs to the heater matrix, so don't yank it around too much as you don't want to split the matrix as it's a dashboard out job to replace it.
    Last edited by TLicense; 20-10-05 at 00:58.
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  5. #5
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    Once you've removed the idle air crontrol valve pipe, you'll be able to get to the nuts and bolts:-







    Now if the nuts come off, but the washers underneath won't move, try gently prying them off with a flat bladed screw driver. If that doesn't work, the next step of aggresion involves a hammer and the same screw driver. Using the screw driver (Or even a flat punch if you have one!) gently tap the washers around. They'll eventually start to turn, and then you can unscrew them. (The plastic bit melts around the thread of the stud, and forms it's own little thread - hence why it's difficult to just pull them off)
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  6. #6
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    Now before I removed the cam covers I tidied around a little. I undid the accelerator and cruise control cables, and tied them out of the way:-



    An I also removed the throttle cable support bracket otherwise you can guarantee it will just get in the way!



    There's also two last pipes to remove, one on each cam cover:-



    and

    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  7. #7
    I'm part of the furniture Club Member Ian C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    England - East Anglia
    Posts
    15,114
    Feedback
    13 (100%)
    Hurry up Tony, I'm hovering over the "move thread to FAQs" button as we speak

    Btw you can tuck the throttle cable under a wiper blade, gets it well out the way

    -Ian
    I love my job. It pays for my Supra.

  8. #8
    Work... what work? Club Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    England - Suffolk
    Posts
    264
    Feedback
    0

    A little reminder

    Tony,

    When you put those cams back and the end seal caps put some good sealant round them as if not all your oil is gonna piss out past them even with new seals, which i strongly recommend.

    Been there, trying to help you save a crying sesion !!!
    JLF

    1994 Silver Single
    2006 Hyundai Santa Fe
    2012 Aston Vantage V8

  9. #9
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    So you'll now be pretty close to removing the buckets and shims. I tried to lift them out by hand, but they were covered in oil, so I couldn't get a good grip. So I resorted to using some large adjustable pliers and taped over the jaws so as not to scratch the buckets. It was then easy to pull the buckets out with the shims still sat on top of them. Here's a couple of pics of them seperated:-









    To make sure I didn't get things mixed up, I got an egg box, and used that to keep each valves bucket and shim organised:-



    I'm going to do 1 cylinder at a time to help prevent any possible mix up.



    Here you can see the valve retainer (The round disc) and the valve locks (the bits in the centre of the retainer)
    Last edited by TLicense; 21-10-05 at 23:07.
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  10. #10
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    Now the problem is if you remove the valve locks and the retainer now, the valve will drop into the combustion chamber, and you'll need to take the head off to get it back. I'm choosing, if you've not guessed already, to use as someone eloquently put it "the rope trick".

    To do this what you need to do is set the cylinder you're working on to somewhere round about bottom dead centre. It doesn't have to be too precise.
    To do this it's easiest if you remove the spark plugs, if you haven't done it already when setting up the timing marks earlier on. (You'll need a 16mm spark plug socket to remove the spark plugs)

    To find approximately bottom dead centre (BDC) I gently put a long (maybe about 9 inches or more) screw driver down the spark plug hole, and then turned the crankshaft untill the screwdriver stopped moving down and started to move back upwards. Here's a pic of it st approximately BDC:-



    Remove the screwdriver once you're at BDC.

    Now tie a knot into the end of the rope you've bought, and then start to feed it all into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole.



    Now turn the crank shaft gently untill it you feel resistance. This is the rope being compressed between the top of the piston and the bottom of the head and the valves. This will then stop the valves from dropping into the combustion chamber when you remove the locks and retainers. Genius.

    So now you'll be ready to remove the locks and retainers. You'll be using the valve tool to do this. However I found that the diameter was slightly too large, so I placed a washer onto the end of it (it's got a strong magnet inside it by the way - this is what "grabs" the valve locks) Also now's a very good point to take some paper towel and place it anywhere where any small parts could fall down. In particular the oilways between the valves.

    You then simply place it against the retainer, and give it a medium tap with a hammer:-



    The valve spring compreses, and the retainer moves down the valve with it. However the valves not moving, which means there's no load on the valve locks, and the magnet in the tool whips them out the way. When the spring un-compreses, there's no locks to hold the valve retainer in place any more, so the retainer becomes free as-well. (And incidentally get's grabbed by the magent also)

    Here's some pics of the locks and retainer:-





    Here's a pic of the valve tool with the locks and the washer stuck to the magenet:-


    valve locks - yes they are that small!


    You can then just lift the valve spring out. I marked it so as I knew which way up it cam out:-





    So now it was possible to remove the actual valve seals using the valve stem seal pliers. The inlet side was quite difficult to pull out, but after a good pull it finally pried free.
    Unfortunately I just had enough time to remove 1 to take a pic for you, sorry about the quality, I'll take some better ones tomorrow when I do the others and get a couple of shots of what they look like before they're removed.

    edited to say turn crankshaft - not camshaft - the camshaft is no longer in the car so turning it will do no good whatsoever!
    Last edited by TLicense; 22-10-05 at 22:25.
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  11. #11
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    Seal in pliers:-








    The seal will quite possibly split as you remove it. This usually means it leaves a small rubber ring around the valve stem, you'll need to fish this out:-





    If you look into the bucket or lifter bore now, it should look something like this:-

    Last edited by TLicense; 22-10-05 at 22:56.
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  12. #12
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    So now you'll be ready to fit the new seal. Make sure you fit the correct one. They are different inlet to exhaust. The inlet ones have a bronze finish to the outside of the seal, whereas the exhaust one has a silver/grey finish.

    I dipped the seal into clean engine oil (assembly lube would be better) and then positioned it over the tip of the valve stem. Make sure it goes on nice and square:-



    I then used the valve seal tool to push the seal down the valve stem. When it gets to the bottom it should double click into place. If you've loaded it with lots of oil/lube it will more than likely "squelch". Give it a gentle tug with the pliers to make sure it's locked into place.

    Now it's worth making sure that there's no play in the valve. Take the stem and see if it moves upwards or downwards. If there's more than a couple of mm of play, it means the rope has been compacted down by the lock/retainer removal process. To fix, try moving the crankshaft towards TDC again. If this doesn't work you'll need someone to hold the valve in place whilst you first of all move the piston by rotating the crankshaft back from TDC. Then pull say about 9" of rope out of the spark plug hole. Then re-insert the rope, but using something about the size of a knitting needle, try to push it in the direction of the valve you are working on. Whilst doing this the person holding the valve should not let go. If they do, it will more than likely mean having to remove the head to get the valve back. With the rope back in position rotate the crankshaft back to TDC untill you feel the piston hitting the rope again. Hopefully the rope should be under the valve head now, and the valve will not move. If it does try this again untill it doesn't. (After doing all 24 valves I never had to try it again!)

    Next take the valve spring. Give it a check over to make sure it's dust/dirt free. If not give it a clean over with a paper towel. Fit it back over the valve stem. Make sure it's seated correctly at the bottom:-



    Next place the retainer over the spring. Again make sure it's seated square:-



    Place the valve locks into the hole in the valve retainer. To re-insert the locks I found I could semi insert them by pushing on them with my thumbs. This helped to locate them:-



    Then using the valve tool, I placed the tip between the locks, squared the tool up to the retainer and gave it all a good push down the axis of the valve. 50% of the time it worked straight away and the locks clicked into place. I used a kind of pumping up and down motion. After 3-4 "pumps" I checked to make sure the retaner was locked in. Sometimes 1 of the locks would drop in and the other wouldn't. Like this:-



    If it does this you need to remove them again, and try to fit them again untill they both drop in evenly.

    To make sure they are fitted correctly, push down on the retainer untill the spring compresses a little. If fitted correctly the retainer and locks will stay in place. If they move at all, remove the locks using the valve tool, and re-fit them.

    It's now time to re-fit the bucket. Again make sure it's clean. It needs to drop into the bore squarely. It should be an easy fit, and won't need much pressure at all to push it down. If you need to force it, it's not sitting square, so lift it back out and try again.

    Then onto the next one......
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  13. #13
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    Right then, where did I get to...

    Ahh so you should now have the valve locks in place for the first valve and it should look something like this:-



    So now you need to repeat the procedure for the remaining 23 valves.

    As you're going along I stongly advise that you place some paper towel either side of the valve you're working on to stop the small valve locks dropping into the depth's of the engine.

    Also as you go along you may find you run into some problems with things getting in the way like engine hooks:-



    It's only two bolts to undo each one, and it'll make the job much easier. Engine hook removed:-



    Another item that can get into the way is the VSV for the intake air control valve (1 bolt and two hoses) and also the intake air conrtol valve actuator:-



    Which has two phillips head screws. Be careful when undoing these as they're prone to rounding off:-



    So once you've done all 24 valves it's time to start putting the whole lot back together again. But before you do, it's the ideal opportunity to take some tiem to make sure everything is in shape. Give each valve a good shove to make sure the valve locks are in place. Check that you can rotate each bucket in it's place albout the axis of the valve stem. It should move fairly easily. If not take the bucket and shim off and try re-fitting it. I had one that for some reason was a little stiff. I removed and then re-fitted it and it was a lot better. VERY IMPORTANTLY Make sure everything is clean, and that you've accounted for all nuts bolts and tools. You don't want to leave anything in there that shouldn't be there!

    OK so re-assembly should be fairly easy now that you've got this far.

    First of all re-fit the camsshafts. You need to apply a some engine oil to the thrust face of each camshaft. (This is the face that pushes up against the bearing caps along the axis of the shaft)
    You need to install them in a vertain position. There's a pin on the end (knock pin) on the end of each camshaft to help do this.
    Install them to start with, witht the inlet cam, with the knock pin at the 3 oclock position (These pics were taken after I'd fitted the no.1 bearing caps so ignore them):-



    and the exhaust cam with the knock pin at the 11 oclock position:-



    Now fit the no.3 and no.7 bearing caps, and tighten the bolts untill the caps are snug against the head:-

    Last edited by TLicense; 28-10-05 at 00:49.
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  14. #14
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    Now fit the oil seals to the end of the camshafts. Apply a small amount of light grease to the inside of the seal to help the seal slide into place:-



    Next fit the number 1 bearing caps. Put some of the sealant onto the mating face of the bearing/cylinder head. After taking this pic I added a little more than this as I didn't feel it would be enough:-



    To give you some idea, when I tightened the bearing cap, this amount squelched out from the mating face:-



    Now fit and tighten to 20Nm (14ft/lb) the remaining bearing caps in the following order:-

    5-1-3-4-2-6-7



    Now here's the trick bit.

    You now need to align the knock pins to the 12 oclock position. Use the hexagon section half way down the camshaft and and adjustable spanner to turn the camshafts clockwise untill they're at the 12 oclock poisiton:-



    Now undo and then re-torque to 20Nm the following bearing caps bolts:-

    Inlet: 1-2-5

    Exhaust: 1-2-6.

    Now rotate the camshafts again clockwise to the 4oclock position:-



    No undo and then retorque to 20Nm the following bearing cap bolts:-

    Inlet: 4-6

    Exhaust 4-7

    Now rotate again, clockwise, to the 8 oclock position:-



    Undo and then re-torque to 20Nm bearing caps:-

    Inlet 3-7

    Exhaust: 3-5.

    If at any point you find you can't move the camshaft around, it probably means you've got a bucket/shim that is stickling in place. You need to remove the camshaft using the same order of bearing cap removal as you did when removing the cams the first time around. Check all the buckets are moving freely and then go back to the camshaft installation and repeat the installation procedure.

    Now re-check the valve shim clearances. I found mine were a little tighter than before but still within the same tolerances as when stripping the cams out.
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

  15. #15
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    England - Oxfordshire
    Posts
    5,675
    Feedback
    8 (100%)
    So hopefully that will be the camshafts fitted.

    Next fit the no.4 timing belt cover, make sure the wiring loom is behind the cover when you fit it, it's too tight to lift it over once the cover's fitted. Trust me! Make sure all 4 bolts that you removed get put back. (They should be torques to 8.8Nm but I defie anyone to get in there with a torque driver!):-



    Now fit the camshaft gears. Why not put them back on in the order they came off? To help fit them use a spanner at the hexagon section (or mole grips in my case!) to hold the camshaft in place. Use a cloth to stop the spanner from "dinking" the head. They need to be tightened to 79Nm (59ftlb)



    Now's a good time to set-up the timing.

    What you need to do is to align the camgears with the timing marks on the no.4 timing belt cover:-





    You then need to set the crank-shaft pulley to the 0 timing mark, with the no.1 cylinder at top dead centre.
    To do this gently place the long screw driver into the plug hole of the no.1 cylinder, then turn the cranksshaft untill the timing mark lines up with the 0. NOW be careful, there's two timing marks on the pulley. (As I found out after a lot of head scratching later!) if you're turning the crankshaft clockwise it's the second timing mark that you want to use.

    You can just make out the yellow timing mark on this shot (It's really difficult to get a good shot of this!)

    Last edited by TLicense; 28-10-05 at 01:38.
    Tony License
    Oxford UK
    '93 JDM BTT GZ 6Spd conversion

    Pushing for the championship....

Page 1 of 9 12345 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •