Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 31

Thread: No boost help!

  1. #16
    Posting is my life! Club Member jackso11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    England - Norfolk
    Posts
    6,334
    Feedback
    36 (100%)
    Don't suppose anyone is local to norwich that I can quickly borrow an igniter to test?
    Autodoc - Norwich Bodywork specialists
    Web - www.autodocnorwich.co.uk
    Facebook - www.facebook.com/autodocnorwich
    Tel - 01603 780940
    Email - adam@autodocnorwich.co.uk

  2. #17
    Posting is my life! Club Member jackso11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    England - Norfolk
    Posts
    6,334
    Feedback
    36 (100%)
    Iím going to change the igniter and hope that sorts it. If itís not that then I think it may be the mines ecu I just picked up from Keron as it hasnít really been used since putting it in. Checked and itís done 8 miles 😜
    Autodoc - Norwich Bodywork specialists
    Web - www.autodocnorwich.co.uk
    Facebook - www.facebook.com/autodocnorwich
    Tel - 01603 780940
    Email - adam@autodocnorwich.co.uk

  3. #18
    Posting is my life! Club Member jackso11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    England - Norfolk
    Posts
    6,334
    Feedback
    36 (100%)
    Ok so this has been a while as we have been so busy at work and at home my family is growing But I have finaly had a few minutes to look t this again. New information....can anyone help?

    Basically I charged the battery off the car fully and put it on, started the car and id seemed to run fine again magically. O/D light is flashing, 6 times then 2, then another 6 then 3, on cycle. So I drove it round the building and as I was coming back in to the car park it suddenly started not revving over 1500 rpm again . It seemed to do it as I went over a bump so I thought maybe electrical and a bad connection. I left it over night, started again and it runs fine! However I have discovered that without touching anything and without the car doing anything other than ticking over, when it gets up to running temp I tried to rev it again and its back to not revving over 1500 rpm.

    So the problem seems to be only there when up to running temp. Is there some kind of limp mode or sensor that this would indicate need looking at?

    I am hoping one of you clever people will know what this is!
    Autodoc - Norwich Bodywork specialists
    Web - www.autodocnorwich.co.uk
    Facebook - www.facebook.com/autodocnorwich
    Tel - 01603 780940
    Email - adam@autodocnorwich.co.uk

  4. #19
    Posting is my life! Club Member jackso11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    England - Norfolk
    Posts
    6,334
    Feedback
    36 (100%)
    I have googled and found this...

    #42 Defective no 1 speed sensor
    #61 Defective no2 speed sensor
    #62 Defective no 1 solenoid
    #63 Defective no 2 solenoid
    #64 Defective lock up solenoid

    which might be the solution to the O/D flashes but no help for the engine problem I don't think.
    Autodoc - Norwich Bodywork specialists
    Web - www.autodocnorwich.co.uk
    Facebook - www.facebook.com/autodocnorwich
    Tel - 01603 780940
    Email - adam@autodocnorwich.co.uk

  5. #20
    Posting is my life! Club Member jackso11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    England - Norfolk
    Posts
    6,334
    Feedback
    36 (100%)
    nobody have any ideas?

    I remember a time when you could put a question on here and spend the day reading different peoples opinions forum seems to have gone quite these days.
    Autodoc - Norwich Bodywork specialists
    Web - www.autodocnorwich.co.uk
    Facebook - www.facebook.com/autodocnorwich
    Tel - 01603 780940
    Email - adam@autodocnorwich.co.uk

  6. #21
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member Style's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    England - Tyne and Wear
    Posts
    2,731
    Feedback
    7 (100%)
    Tried another ECU? Annoying thing to have to do if you don't have another one but may well be the issue
    '96 SZ-R 6 Speed.
    Whifbitz NA-T
    Project Thread Here

  7. #22
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    10,676
    Feedback
    45 (100%)
    Is the Supra work manual for the autobox not on here? it 'may' be the autobox/or its solenoids are reporting an issue and there is a limp type mode to protect it.....this sort of fits with the reseting after turning off and on the next day.

    Perhaps get it up to temperature so it's doing the same thing then turn off for maybe 10mins (so it's still hot) and see if it lets you rev high even briefly.
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  8. #23
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    10,676
    Feedback
    45 (100%)
    Extract from Toyota manual


    Codes 42, 62, 63 and 64 are limited to short or open circuits in the electrical system comprised of the
    solenoids, wire harnesses, and connectors. The ECM is unable to detect mechanical trouble (sticking,
    for example) in the solenoid valves.
    • If the speed sensors No.1 and No.2 happen to fail simultaneously, the ECM will neither alert the driver
    by blinking the O/D OFF indicator nor record any diagnostic trouble code. It will, however, decide that
    the vehicle can be driven only in 1st and none of the other gears, shifting upward will then be
    prohibited.


    Also re code 64 which may point to the main ecu?

    All conditions below are detected for 1 sec. or more:
    (2 trip detection logic)*3
    (a) ECM output duty signal to No.3 solenoid in 90% or higher
    duty ratio

    http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/...logs/A340E.pdf
    (b) Current to No.3 solenoid: 450Ī100 mA or less
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  9. #24
    Posting is my life! Club Member jackso11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    England - Norfolk
    Posts
    6,334
    Feedback
    36 (100%)
    There has been a development in the problem it would seem. I decided to unplug one of the plugs going to the coilpacks to see what would happen while the engine is running....pot luck but for some reason I pulled the second one from the front first and there was no change in the engine running at all! It started up fine, I left it a few minutes and all of a sudden while idling it sounded like it wasn't running on all cylinders so I pulled that plug and there was no change in it at all, so it would appear when the problem starts I am running on 5 cylinders. If I pull any of the other plugs the engine dies. I swapped coilpacks around and its always the 2nd cylinder from the front of the engine.

    I investigated the wiring to that plug and found under the sheathing both wires were cut and I presumed they were shorting so cut out the bad wire and put in some new wire. Still nothing from that cylinder....but the O/D light has stopped flashing...odd.

    Makes me think either there is another part of the wire damaged, there is a problem with the igniter pack and the second igniter pack I have (which doesn't seem plausible) or the ECU.

    DOes this make anyone out there think 'I know exactly what that is!'
    Autodoc - Norwich Bodywork specialists
    Web - www.autodocnorwich.co.uk
    Facebook - www.facebook.com/autodocnorwich
    Tel - 01603 780940
    Email - adam@autodocnorwich.co.uk

  10. #25
    BPU happy Events Organiser Shane's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    England - Northamptonshire
    Posts
    4,447
    Feedback
    39 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by jackso11 View Post
    There has been a development in the problem it would seem. I decided to unplug one of the plugs going to the coilpacks to see what would happen while the engine is running....pot luck but for some reason I pulled the second one from the front first and there was no change in the engine running at all! It started up fine, I left it a few minutes and all of a sudden while idling it sounded like it wasn't running on all cylinders so I pulled that plug and there was no change in it at all, so it would appear when the problem starts I am running on 5 cylinders. If I pull any of the other plugs the engine dies. I swapped coilpacks around and its always the 2nd cylinder from the front of the engine.

    I investigated the wiring to that plug and found under the sheathing both wires were cut and I presumed they were shorting so cut out the bad wire and put in some new wire. Still nothing from that cylinder....but the O/D light has stopped flashing...odd.

    Makes me think either there is another part of the wire damaged, there is a problem with the igniter pack and the second igniter pack I have (which doesn't seem plausible) or the ECU.

    DOes this make anyone out there think 'I know exactly what that is!'
    The High Ripple Current capacitors in the ECU that leak over the board can cause the OD light to flash and produce error codes, interestingly both ecus that have done this on mine worked fine from cold but then after a period of driving start to mess around causing the OD light to flash and the clue if you know what it smells like, is a whiff of electrolyte cooking from the caps. This could and I emphasise the could, be your OD flashing problem.

    As Scooter said in his earlier post, the box has 2 sensors, one is a 2 wire sensor that solely provides info for gear changes and the other a 3 wire type which is mainly for the odo, PS ECU and speedo. However if the output from the 2 wire sensor disappears the ecu then uses the info coming from the 3 wire sensor and will also produce a transmission fault code to let you know. If as Scooter says both have died (which would be really really unlucky I would think) the ecu will then limit what you can do and go to a full on limp mode. If you have a digital multimeter that has a frequency counter built in (many do nowadays as standard) you will be able to see whatís coming off the sensors at the ecu end to give you some clues.

    Regarding the coil pack issues, sounds like you need to cut the loom a fair way back at the coil packs and renew the wiring, these cables do get really brittle and fall to pieces, and in form of a shameless plug, I have a set of brand new coil pack connectors with about 6" of cable pre-terminated available together with the heat shrink. I was going to list them in the for sale section when I had chance but if it helps you out we could do a deal I am sure.

    Hope some of this may help, good luck.
    Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people.
    Satin black BPU. 12.83 1/4 @ Santa Pod Saturday night special May 2015
    N/A auto, Red..Sold
    N/A Auto Silver..Sold

    Daily commute BMW E53 X5 M57 power
    Nissan Navara D22 twin cab PU,Mercedes W210 E300TD, W202 250TD powered by veggie oil,
    Vauxhall Tigra with Isuzu diesel engine conversion. Powered by veg oil

  11. #26
    Posting is my life! Club Member jackso11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    England - Norfolk
    Posts
    6,334
    Feedback
    36 (100%)
    Problem solved! Second ECU tested that has been kindly loaned to me by Scooter and the car is running perfectly. So now I just wish I hadn't swapped my ECU with Keron for the mines ECU that doesn't fire on one cylinder

    Anyone know who can fix it?
    Autodoc - Norwich Bodywork specialists
    Web - www.autodocnorwich.co.uk
    Facebook - www.facebook.com/autodocnorwich
    Tel - 01603 780940
    Email - adam@autodocnorwich.co.uk

  12. #27
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    10,676
    Feedback
    45 (100%)
    Someone looked at the one of mine you've got but could see anything obvious.....others with leaking capacitors have had better success.

    I suggest opening up yours and looking for burnt bits....link pending
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  13. #28
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    10,676
    Feedback
    45 (100%)
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  14. #29
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    England - Surrey
    Posts
    10,676
    Feedback
    45 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Shane View Post
    The High Ripple Current capacitors in the ECU that leak over the board can cause the OD light to flash and produce error codes, interestingly both ecus that have done this on mine worked fine from cold but then after a period of driving start to mess around causing the OD light to flash and the clue if you know what it smells like, is a whiff of electrolyte cooking from the caps. This could and I emphasise the could, be your OD flashing problem.

    .
    Shane are you experienced in self repair or at least know where these capacitors are specifically on the board? The one Adam has of mine is not shifting into 4th gear (otherwise ok hence why I sent it to allow him to test), but no sign of board burn and a pcb specialist couldn't see anything untoward, but offered a resoldering service (I declined as I knew about possible capacitor issues and so thought it unlikely to fix it?).
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  15. #30
    BPU happy Events Organiser Shane's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    England - Northamptonshire
    Posts
    4,447
    Feedback
    39 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Scooter View Post
    Shane are you experienced in self repair or at least know where these capacitors are specifically on the board? The one Adam has of mine is not shifting into 4th gear (otherwise ok hence why I sent it to allow him to test), but no sign of board burn and a pcb specialist couldn't see anything untoward, but offered a resoldering service (I declined as I knew about possible capacitor issues and so thought it unlikely to fix it?).
    I have repaired one of mine and am about to embark on a ecu from a LS400 V8 that my son is running in his Supra. I have another here with exact same faults as the first one that failed and that was flashing od light and a sulfurus smell when hot which I am going to relaplace the capacitors. However, on both of these ECU it was clear the caps were failing, in that they had started to leak. Its a little tricky to do, but not rocket science with the plated through holes that link the tracks on both sides of the PCB. I have a photo somewhere that showed the electrolyte oozing onto the pcb from the cap. I will see if I can find it and post. These caps are a specific type and you must use the correct type with a low ESR https://xtronics.com/wiki/Capacitors_and_ESR.html

    On the one I did I simply did a blanket change of all electrolytic capacitors, from memory there's 8 in total, possibly 9. I think though, Adam's ecu possibly has a different fault, for one cylinder to not to be firing sounds to me as a driver transistor or maybe a dry joint, but note you mention the board has been checked for this.
    Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people.
    Satin black BPU. 12.83 1/4 @ Santa Pod Saturday night special May 2015
    N/A auto, Red..Sold
    N/A Auto Silver..Sold

    Daily commute BMW E53 X5 M57 power
    Nissan Navara D22 twin cab PU,Mercedes W210 E300TD, W202 250TD powered by veggie oil,
    Vauxhall Tigra with Isuzu diesel engine conversion. Powered by veg oil

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •