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Thread: Car sat for 5 years - My plan / Suggestions welcome

  1. #31
    I'm part of the furniture Club Member Dnk's Avatar
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    I'd be flushing it through at the very least, i'd also get a new rad cap for it as they fail
    and cause coolant problems and overheating
    Dunk

  2. #32
    Work... what work? Club Member
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    Ahh sorry. I thought you meant the condenser.

    No the rad is aftermarket. It's blown near the top right corner which may or may mot have happened when it was mounted. Going to have a go at fixing it which I'm pretty sure I can. Get my tig weld on. I've got a new rad cap on order too already.

    I'm going to flush the heater matrix whilst the rad is off. Then flush again once the rad goes back on to do the full coolant system.

  3. #33
    Work... what work? Club Member
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    Just wanted a bit of advice on this before I put it back together.


    I have managed to weld the radiator. Lost a couple of fins in the process but its a very small area. Ill monitor the temp and swap it out but I really think it will be fine.
    Before I stick it all back together should I be changing the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and other wheels all in one go? This obviously wants doing at some point but should I be concerned and do it before driving it round again?

    I have flushed the heater matrix and some right bits came out. Really not sure if that is going to work again. Just need to reflush the entire system with the radiator back on and drain and refill.


    In regards to the brakes I am waiting for some more bits then going to take all 4 calipers off and refurb all of them with a CW kit. Just need to order it so I can do it over Xmas
    So long and thanks for all the fish

    1994 RZ TT BPU 6speed Manual

  4. #34
    Posting is my life! Club Member evinX's Avatar
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    Do all fluids, you can get oem spec rads of keron for good prices. Change the belts. May not need a water pump and tensioner...

  5. #35
    I'm part of the furniture Club Member Dnk's Avatar
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    Does it have the cars original Crank Pulley still fitted, they separate when they get old and the metal outer ring
    flies off.

    1 owner on here suffered a damaged oil pump when that happened as the pulley hit the pump
    and crack the casing.

    At the least do a tippex test on the pulley
    Dunk

  6. #36
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
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    I agree the rad will probably be fine, hopefully the matrix bits are bits that have ended up in it rather than bits of the actual matrix. Have you run it up to temperature and checked for heat from the heater or leaks from anywhere? When you say you aren't sure it'll work again it, if the flushing water flowed through it then it will either work in some form or leak into the passenger side footwell because its perforated. Also what was the inside of the coolant pipes like any evidence of rust grit? if there was a waterpump and thermostat renewal and flush at that time wouldn't go amiss (main to/from rad pipes worth doing too)

    I would at least run it up to temp to check things over now, you can obviously go belt and braces right now but you don't 100% have to just yet.

    I'd concentrate on the cooling/heating system and see if it's all operational, seems like the engine all starts and runs well? Perhaps look for some cheap coolant deals and fill it up and maybe use a holts quick flush again? have you drained the coolant completely as well as flushing the matrix and rad, there is a bolt that drains the block, but it's awkward to get at as it's tucked away under the turbos but it might be worth you draining from there too to see what you get out of there, can always flush through too while it's open (depends how much crud has accumulated which we can't know!)
    Last edited by Scooter; 12-12-18 at 19:11.
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  7. #37
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
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    As Dunk says tippex test or even a paper sticker across the outer inch of the crank pulley to check for potential separation.
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  8. #38
    Work... what work? Club Member
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    Hadn't heard of the tippex test until now.
    The stock Toyota crank pulleys are made of more than one part separated by a rubber damper designed to protect the crank from vibration and wear. When the crank pulley gets old, the rubber wears and the two parts slip, causing the squealing noise. If you don't replace it, it could fly off and smash up other bits in the engine bay.

    Prove this is the problem by painting a line of tipp-ex across the two parts, then rev the engine and check to see if the tipp-ex marks still line up. You can reach down to get to it, through the gap marked with the arrow in the picture. Even after simply starting the engine on my Supra, the two parts had slipped and the tipp-ex marks didn't line up any more.

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