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Thread: Rear sub frame swap - off for galvanzing, may turn into a project thread

  1. #46
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    Solid bushes out and sleeve cleaned up. They came out a lot easier than expected.

    Did a 1K etch prime coat followed by two coats of Simoniz Underguard. That's strange paint as it froths up when applied. Presumably to give it a deliberately crinkly type of finish. Supposed to be impact resistant paint so every crinkle counts.

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    Next update will be beginning of September when I will try manfully to get all the new bushes (some just ordered) mated with the frame.
    Last edited by rider; 06-07-17 at 14:48.

  2. #47
    I'm part of the furniture Events Organiser Al Massey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rider View Post
    This frame will be a 1,500 piece of kit by the time new OE bushes included.
    That's ok, mines at about 2.5K without the diff lol


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    TRD widebody in need of carbon

  3. #48
    I'm part of the furniture Authorised Trader Chris Wilson's Avatar
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    People spending serious dosh on subframe recons might consider putting an active R33 GTR V Spec diff in under ECU control, has anyone done this yet?
    Regards, Chris Wilson. No PM's PLEASE, use e-mail!
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  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Massey View Post
    That's ok, mines at about 2.5K without the diff lol

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    Spot the 2K paint job, that's an unfair comparison to frothy impact resistant Underguard.

    I have thought about getting new arms but I'm going bide my time on that and look over the ones on the car first when they are off before going down that expensive path. I have options there as the replacement frame came with all the arms and hubs but the bushes, ball joints and dust covers on those aren't fantastic. It was all supposed to be off a low mileage import car but they must have been hard miles. But I'll have two sets to look at with the option of picking the best from two used or going for new. Decisions don't come easy or cheap. I just know if I elect to go new I'd just have to buy all new for the front end at the same time ready for when that is done. That'd get to be lots of money with new rods, arms and bushes.

  5. #50
    I'm part of the furniture Events Organiser Al Massey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rider View Post
    Spot the 2K paint job, that's an unfair comparison to frothy impact resistant Underguard.

    I have thought about getting new arms but I'm going bide my time on that and look over the ones on the car first when they are off before going down that expensive path. I have options there as the replacement frame came with all the arms and hubs but the bushes, ball joints and dust covers on those aren't fantastic. It was all supposed to be off a low mileage import car but they must have been hard miles. But I'll have two sets to look at with the option of picking the best from two used or going for new. Decisions don't come easy or cheap. I just know if I elect to go new I'd just have to buy all new for the front end at the same time ready for when that is done. That'd get to be lots of money with new rods, arms and bushes.
    I wasn't on about the paint

    I decided on full new arms and bushes because the ones on my car were getting bad and couldn't adjust them all anymore so was making it a very harsh ride.

    Plus I knew that the arms are good for 20 odd years so thought why not while I had the cash.
    TRD widebody in need of carbon

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    Quote Originally Posted by Al Massey View Post
    I decided on full new arms and bushes because the ones on my car were getting bad and couldn't adjust them all anymore so was making it a very harsh ride.

    Plus I knew that the arms are good for 20 odd years so thought why not while I had the cash.
    I fully expect I'll end up buying new pretty much everything before I'm done. I'm just in denial at the moment thinking recycled parts will do, so I just need to get myself mentally prepared first ready to put several calls into Mr Toyota.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Wilson View Post
    People spending serious dosh on subframe recons might consider putting an active R33 GTR V Spec diff in under ECU control, has anyone done this yet?
    That sounds complicated.

  8. #53
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
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    Probably requires something like a syvecs, presumably it's not too complicated ie you can reduce the lsd effect at very low speeds, perhaps reduce it when off throttle? ie into corners? I'm not 100% up on my diffs and all their reactions under various conditions.


    Doubt it's an option for us stock ecu'ers
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  9. #54
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    Tackled my new fuel guard today that came via Toyota Oxford shipped via ANC courier. The straps came in a bag that got destroyed by ANC and the tank guard got a bit of a beating to. ANC are quite probably the worst courier, a cheap franchise outfit where damage is always transferable to the collecting franchise or the distribution centre. The guard had lots of back to metal scrapes and scuffs as illustrated by the primer plasters applied. Repainting the guard really highlighted the three dents nicely. One may need to be bashed out as it is quite pronounced but I won't know if it'll affect fitting until I tackle the fitting.

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    I don't fully appreciate the need upon receiving brand new Toyota parts to then spending 2 hours and 15 on paint sorting them and still have a damaged part at the end of it.

  10. #55
    Me? Post? Never! Club Member mwilkinson's Avatar
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    I'd have sent that back or claimed. I wouldn't tolerate that on a new item. You'll struggle to get those dents out and retain a half decent finish.

    I travelled to Oxford to collect my tank guard for fear of such damage, but in any event you should expect better from a courier company.
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  11. #56
    Posting is my life! Club Member Sheefa's Avatar
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    Wow that's really bad. Appalling service.

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  12. #57
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    I'm going to have my main run fuel and brake lines collected by a relative from Oxford as I know ANC would rearrange the shape and probably crush them to. Suggested to SM in the past that he looks elsewhere for a courier but he seems pretty set on ANC. He hasn't responded to the email I sent him with the same pictures attached of the tank guard. If it wasn't something that sat under the car largely unseen I would have rejected it with the damage but at least I know with the time I spent on it and the extra two coats of paint its better than new now, albeit with a dent or two or three. I was pleased with the end paint finish.

    The concern for this kind of thing is more where a part goes directly to a garage for fitting as part of say an accident repair. I don't think they would spend 2 hours putting right the paint damage before fitting it. Without the remedial work this guard would be rusting away quite nicely in lots of places in just a few months.

  13. #58
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    I'd be on the phone to Steve, i had brake lines off him and the courier bent them in half to fit in their little van

    He replaced the lines and told me to keep the other lines or bin them
    Dunk

  14. #59
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    Before anyone says you should have, just remember hindsight is a wonderful view not bestowed upon many.

    Back onto the sub frame today to tackle the threads as molten zinc pools in threads very well. There are several means to prevent or cure zinc build up in threads that I researched this weekend, obviously for me prevention is all academic as I'm post dip. But for others its definitely something to consider.

    Going with prevention, thread protection, there are proprietary stop galv paint products which you can buy and put over the parts or areas that you wish not to be galvanized. That is probably going to pool again in threads which might be just as bad as a zinc coat once its been oven cured and I doubt it would survive a paint strip process anyway? Or people suggest high temperature silicone sealant or high temperature greases as an option. Though, if the part is going to be oven baked (rather than chemical stripped) to remove paint then any product needs to be capable of comfortably withstanding 600C for a reasonable period. I'm also not sure if galvanizers would appreciate grease in their acid baths. Some recommend leaving a bolt or stud in situ and then blow torching it out later. I left a few bolts in and if anything they were harder to sort out than the remedy for open threads outlined later.

    Prevention was something to late for my sub frame with restorative cure now the only option. Some of the bolt holes were even completely closed with pooled zinc (I had to refer back to pre dip pictures to identify some bolt holes). On others the zinc had almost smoothed out the thread. Some early morning research came up with an interesting fact, zinc melts at a 200C lower temperature than the zinc/ferrous alloy formed in the galvanised layer. So off to see my mate today who is the one going to do the fitting with me and use his torch to melt out the zinc from the threads.

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    I was amazed how much zinc came out of the threads and pleased how successful the torching method was. The galvanised layer remained intact, though the paint burnt away. So it was on my painting pallet again for some fresh prime and impact resistant paint. I should have tackled the zinc in threads before painting and were I ever to galvanise another Supra sub frame that is indeed what I would do. Melting off the excess zinc is a far neater method to drilling and tapping as well as much quicker to.
    Last edited by rider; 16-07-17 at 19:32.

  15. #60
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    Blowing the budget on this.

    I've bought into all new arms for the sub frame. Going to retain and clean up the hubs but fit new bearings and handbrake shoes. Taking into account the cost of the frame, the tratment and painting of the frame, all new bushes, new fuel and brake lines and fuel hoses, new fuel pump and the new suspension parts its all pushing to 5k before any labour taken into account. So not really a project to be contemplated unless you have deep stuffed pockets.

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