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Thread: Rear sub frame swap - off for galvanzing, may turn into a project thread

  1. #151
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    Did the POR 15 painting today on the Supra bodywork. The silver paint does take a lot of stirring as the metallic flake is pretty compacted on the bottom of the tin. POR suggest their paint should be stirred, not shaken; the opposite of 007. I assume this is to avoid air entrapment in the paint as any collapsed bubbles in a paint film would undermine the impervious surface coating that POR 15 is designed to provide.

    It takes a long time, far longer than I'd envisaged. Took almost 3 hours to double coat the POR 15. Its a very thin paint so a little goes a very long way. I was painting out of a 1 pint tin and still had a third remaining at the end of the paint.

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    I like the POR 15 paint. I gives excellent coverage and being thin finds its way into all the tight places. I'm going to leave it for a couple of hours more, to let it get tacky then I'll apply an acrylic top coat. The recommendation from users is to wait till dry and then use the POR expensive primer or tackle it with paint while the POR layer is still tacky to aid adhesion so I'm going to do the latter.

    I fished out the bolts and retainer rings for the drive shafts from their overnight soak in POR metal prep and its a big fail as far as I'm concerned for the mPOR metal prep. The POR metal prep did nothing but turn the grey paint black and left the rust spots brown. So the retainers have been treated to a coating in aquasteel.

  2. #152
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    You've still got the brake lines and hoses attached are you not swapping them for the new ones then?

  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by blythmrk View Post
    You've still got the brake lines and hoses attached are you not swapping them for the new ones then?
    Decided not to do the line swap in the end seeing the brake lines were replaced just over a year ago for copper lines and the fuel lines are all like new except for a very short run where it exits the under car protective ducting where there was slight surface rusting. I've sanded that small section and painted so I'll store the new set of brake and fuel pipes for some other time.

  4. #154
    Helpful Club Member Scooter's Avatar
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    I don't think the POR metal prep is designed to really de rust (it will with vigorous brushing), more about making sure the POR (paint over rust) paint adheres and doesn't flake off in big chunks down the line.

    "After thoroughly degreasing work piece, apply environmentally safe Metal-Prep to neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal for better adhesion of POR-15 or other paint
    Number 8 ...........doing my best to keep
    Number 9 ........been and gone!
    Number 10 ........on its way

  5. #155
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    Second coat of paint applied today and looking like a shiny black hole under the car. All painting is now completed so I'll give it a couple of days for the paint to cure and then finish it off with the rubberised spray onto the wheel housing where there is no factory protective coating applied or remaining after I tackled the failed parts. I will apply a good layer of Dinitrol spray grease which dries to a resilient film onto the area directly above where the frame sits to give further protection and water repellent to this area that once the frame is installed will no longer be accessible or visible

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    Onto the other parts, the heat shields are sanded and ready for prepping. Today started on the drive shafts getting them sanded down ready for treatment prior to painting over the next couple of days. It'll be onto the hubs as well tomorrow, which have been broken down to the constituent parts of backing plate, bearing housing and knuckle as these need to be finished by Saturday ready for their new bush, new shoes and new bearing fitting.

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    The wheel bearings that were removed were the original ones fitted to the car and both had corrosion on the bearing face so were ready for a change out.

    Worked out the time involved so far on this project:

    Me 45 hours
    Mechanic mate 8 hours
    Welder 10 hours (including travel time)

    Total to date approx. 60 man hours

    Costs to date

    Bushes, arms, pipes, tank guard, tank straps and fittings
    Amayama 780
    Toyota Oxford 2,880
    TCB 450

    Other Parts
    Wheel Bearings 190
    Discs 100
    Brake pads 120
    Handbrake shoes 45
    Drop links 60
    Sway bar 120
    Fuel pump 70
    Fuel tank breather pipe (self fabricated) 25

    Frame (second hand) 600
    Frame prep 220

    Materials
    Paints 140
    Chemicals 65
    Sanding discs 15

    Outside labour
    Welder 200
    Mechanic support (FOC)

    Total spend so far 6,080, that hurts.
    Last edited by rider; 25-10-17 at 17:26.

  6. #156
    Posting is my life! Club Member Sheefa's Avatar
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    Assume your car is not the White TT attending NEC Classic car show then?

    Very comprehensive and competent refurbishment. You know the sad fact is you'll never get the money back, but it'll last decades.

    Greg

    UK Spec Manual - Big Single Turbo 800bhp

    Carefully maintained by Lee P and the Team @ SRD
    http://www.supraracingdevelopments.co.uk

  7. #157
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    This car wont be making its way anywhere for a few more weeks yet, the exhaust is going to be the last thing to fit and that is looking like Christmas now if I stick with the Blitz option. I'm expecting once that is added along with other little things yet to crop up to the list of parts the final bill for the rear end overhaul will be over 7k, a little beyond what I was anticipating at the outset. I have started stockpiling parts for a front end revamp so I'm going to be running uncomfortably close to 10k spend.

    It is a very expensive refurb but all new suspension parts and bushes along with the shocks that were changed under 3,000 miles ago means the car should pretty much ride like a new car. Nothing actually needed changing out but the option we all have on fitting the car with OE replacement parts is a finite window of opportunity to spend lots. The rust work should give it a better chance of staying intact and having your own lift available to keep on top of things makes annual inspections a near pleasure.

    Is it worth it? I was thinking a few days ago on what impact all this work would have on the cars value and I agree, its not going to add much if anything. My biggest worry is that with all the throwing around on a heavy frame that the ABS leads could have got damaged and I'll have a bright yellow ABS warning light at the end of it all which could, if anything, detractover its pre refurb condition. Its clearly never going to be cost effective for anyone to do this but my hope is it ensures the car has a better than fighting chance of being a survivor for future generations. Its promised to my oldest grandson and he already calls it his car so I need to keep it in a condition he will be proud to own one day.

  8. #158
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    Another day and another play. Tackled the drive shafts and the two central heat shields today then washed out the cooler intake rubbers. The rubbers, in the kitchen sink while the wife is out. The mud inside had turned strangely concrete like so took a lot of scrubbing and a fair bit of splashing around.

    The main item was to start on the drive shafts, masking them up took a good while but I'm OK with that kind of thing. I was going to open up the black POR 15 for the non body bits but seeing there was a third of a tin of silver left I went with that. Using a disposable glove on the tin lid made opening the can straightforward, it would have been near impossible otherwise as POR 15 goes seriously hard when it dries. I love this POR paint, so little goes a long way which makes runs an issue but on shafts rotation and constant brushing stopped that.

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    Did the road side of the 2 central heat shields as well and I'll paint these black (matt) along with the shafts (gloss) in a couple of hours, before the POR 15 paint has fully dried. I'm doing the heat shields matt black only because I have a new shield to fit where the old one was non-existant (made way for the bespoke exhaust hanger) that I added extra layers of paint to a couple of months ago that was matt black.

    Tomorrow I'll finish the parts up with painting the diff end of the shafts and the body side of the shields. Once the heat shields are done I'll Dinitrol the body side of the three shields before bolting onto the car. I've put back the hubs till the weekend which pushes the bearing and bush fit back a week but figured it'll be best to give the paint time to cure properly before the parts go anywhere near a hydraulic press.

  9. #159
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    Every day is a Supra day.

    Finished the drive shafts and heat shields. Pleased with the way the drive shafts turned out. Also applied a can of ABRO undercoating spray to all the inner wheel hosing exposed (not under factory protective coating) areas. Stuff smells strongly of fresh tar so its a high bitumen content product. Its very fluid so anything other than a quick pass with the spray turns quickly into a gravity led river. Its dulled the shiny paint down to a mat black bitumen type covering. Instructions do say not to spray anywhere near an exhaust system so its product specifically tailored to providing protection from chips, noise and corrosion in wheel wells. Looks a decent product though and US restoration sites tend to rave about it.

    Pictures of the drive shafts before and after:

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    Last edited by rider; 28-10-17 at 01:37.

  10. #160
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    Had the final big ticket item turn up yesterday, a HKS Racing exhaust. Next day delivery, I cancelled my Blitz Nur order with Fensport placed in June as the exhaust has been delayed many times and has only just hit the water with a near to Christmas delivery date. The HKS racing exhaust looks a big exhaust, lets hope its not too noisy for the neighbours!

    Finished painting up both of the deconstructed hubs and the bearings and new bush are being pressed home on Friday.Started on the differential today which is the final item to prep and paint and that should be finished by Saturday. Then its just the reassembly to do which I have already started with the exhaust hanger and shields. The removed trim is awaiting new fittings, which should land soon having been ordered over 2 weeks ago, before going back onto the car so the end is clearly in sight now.

    Time involved so far on this project:

    Me 60 hours
    Mechanic mate 8 hours
    Welder 10 hours (including travel time)

    Total to date approx. 75 man hours (Ed China can rebuild an entire car in less time than that)

    Costs to date

    Bushes, arms, pipes, tank guard, tank straps and fittings
    Amayama 780
    Toyota Oxford 2,880
    TCB 450

    Other Parts
    Wheel Bearings 190
    Discs 100
    Brake pads 120
    Handbrake shoes 45
    Drop links 60
    Sway bar 120
    Fuel pump 70
    Fuel tank breather pipe (self fabricated) 25
    HKS Exhaust 720

    Frame (second hand) 600
    Frame prep 220

    Materials
    Paints 140
    Chemicals 65
    Sanding discs 15
    Exhaust putty, gaskets and hangers 30

    Outside labour
    Welder 200
    Mechanic support (FOC)

    Total spend so far 6,830, that still hurts.
    Last edited by rider; 01-11-17 at 14:06.

  11. #161
    Yes, I'm a Moderator Pete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheefa View Post
    You know the sad fact is you'll never get the money back
    Nonsense.
    '97 VVTi Royal Sapphire Pearl Tiptronic BPU

  12. #162
    Posting is my life! Club Member Sheefa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete View Post
    Nonsense.
    No it's not.

    Greg

    UK Spec Manual - Big Single Turbo 800bhp

    Carefully maintained by Lee P and the Team @ SRD
    http://www.supraracingdevelopments.co.uk

  13. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete View Post
    Nonsense.
    You'd think having the only Mkiv Supra in the World running on a galvanised sub frame has to be worth something for the novelty factor if nothing else. Other than that I'm not planning on raising the insurance agreed value above the current 24k level.

  14. #164
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    Did the diff prep work yesterday with a wire wheel run over, chemical cleaner and then a coating in aquasteel. I've decided against POR 15 painting the diff because the paint is so thin and the surface so rough it'd just pool, run and drip uncontrollably. So instead doing a zinc primer and top coat repaint. Stuck on what top coat to do, the surface is casting rough so gloss black will probably look not quite right. I'm going to try a satin black first see how that looks and hold the matt black in reserve. One thing about underneath my car, its going to be various shades of blackness.

    Pictures of the wire wheeled diff, treated diff and as it presently stands, primed diff.

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    While the diff is off I have had the vent valve off, it was stuck closed and a lot of bits came out when it was solvent bathed. Works fine after the clean and reinstalled. I've ordered in some Fuchs Syn 5 for an oil change on the diff so tackled the fill and drain plugs. Both plugs were bitches and took a few pulls on a three foot breaker to break free. Why garages do them so tight only they know, back in finger tight only and no sign of any oil seepage so they don't need to be 100lb/ft. The drain plug oil coating does look very black which is surprising seeing the oil was changed about 5,000 miles ago, or maybe I just paid to have it changed? I wont drain the oil until I'm done with the painting. After the diff is top coat painted, that's it for paint.

  15. #165
    Yes, I'm a Moderator Pete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheefa View Post
    No it's not.
    Yes it is.
    '97 VVTi Royal Sapphire Pearl Tiptronic BPU

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